The
first problem is getting a good communications port ( com port ).
If you do not have a red slash across the com port logo, you have
a com port but not necessarily a good com port. The
instructions furnished with the PR-1 talk about a DB 9-to-DB 25
port adapter not working well. The diagram ( lower right,
included in PDF file ) may help explain what the problem looks like.
It became obvious I needed a serial port card with a 25-pin RS 232
port. The card I purchased had a parallel port and a DB 9
serial port on the card plus 10-pin plug ( 9-pins won't do! ) to
a DB 25 (RS 232 ) serial port included.
The
instructions with the card did not explain the installation of the
10-pin plug. The board is marked for pin 1 & 2 and 9 &
10 but the plug was not marked at all. The key is that the
1- wire band to the plug had one wire with a red tracer. This
is number 1 so connect it that way. If you solved the problem,
you will be able to complete the following setup step.
After
you install the drivers, start the PR1 program and click on the
Blue and White PR1 box. Now click on "Serial Interface."
- Find
the PR1 Com Port
- Set
the Baud Rate
- Check
all 3 boxes
- Click
on "OK"
The
next piece of information will be helpful to those who are not windows
literate. If you need to disable the FIFO option, follow these
steps:
- Open
"My Computer"
- Open
"Control Panel"
- Open
"System"
- Click
on "Device Manager"
- Click
the '+' sign by "Port ( COM & LPT )"
- Open
the Serial Port connected to the PR1
- Click
on "Port Settings"
- Click
on the "Advanced" button
- Uncheck
the box starting "Use FIFO Buffers"
- Click
"OK"
- Set
the "Bits per Second" ( baud rate )
- Click
"OK"
- Click
"OK"
- Close
"Control Panel"
- Close
"My Computer"
The
Other problem I found is that the PR1 is designed to read Digitrax
decoders which "read" at a higher voltage than TCS and
Soundtraxx. Although this problem exists, all are within NMRA
specifications. A quarter of a volt makes the difference between
working and not. When reading a decoder, look for one of the
following:
- You
get all 255s except for the address (1638).
This is an indication that the supply voltage is too high.
- You
get all 0s or it won't run at all.
This is an indication that the supply voltage is too low.
- You
get random numbers.
This is an indication that the supply voltage is a little low
or you don't have enough resistance across the motor leads.
The
closer you are, the fewer random numbers. If the program is
running, you will note the engine puffing and/or (***) in the box
it is searching. I have found that the program reads very reliably
by using new batteries and reducing the voltage to 15 volts with linear
potentiometers and a voltmeter. I believe this works better
because the new batteries recover faster. If you watch the voltmeter
while the program is running, you will see it jumping all over the
place. I added an on/off switch, so I don't have to disconnect
the batteries, (2) nine volt battery terminals and (2) leads with
alligator clips. If you want to program the decoder on a harness
separate from the engine, add (3) 100 ohm 1 watt resistors and a Decoder
wiring harness and you have all you need.
Click on the
picture for a better image. 1139K
Even though it is possible
to add a fixed amount of resistance to the circuit when you are using
a power source that doesn't erode, by using potentionmeter it is easy
to make fine adjustments to program any brand of decoder.
The wiring diagram at the RIGHT shows
how I made more the program reliable. Be careful not to reverse
the polarity on the red and black leads from the PR1. This
plan will let you program by either putting a Decoder in the
harness or attaching the Alligator clips to a section of track or
the engine wheel.
After I found how well it worked,
I bought a 2"x4"x6' plastic Project Box to mount the components
and keep the desktop tidy. Since I use Harness type to the
cover by cutting a;; but the power and motor leads flush from the
harness. I then drilled four small holes in the cover, fished
the wires through the hole and glued the harness to the cover.
The three 100 ohm resisters are wired in series between the gray
and orange motor leads.
One last hint. If I remove
the Decoder to run it, when I reinstall the Decoder, the program
may not run. If I run the Digitrax program and then go back
to the CV program (or vice versa), it resets and works fine.
Only twice have I had to close the program and restart it.
Good Luck!
James
R. Loudon |
