Photos and text by Larry Platt Glendale, AZ
The H10-44 shell is attached to the frame with the screws through the font and rear coupler boxes. Remove the front and rear coupler boxes and the shell will pull right off. Remove the shell and set it aside. Unsolder the four wires from the trucks to the circuit board. Remove the screw holding the circuit board and top weight to the motor. Remove the circuit board and top weight and set them aside.
Remove the worm gear cover from the top of each truck and take the worm gear out. Remove the drive shafts along with the worm gear. Remove each screw attaching the front and rear truck to the frame. Be careful not to loose the springs that are on the truck screws. Set the trucks aside and put the screws and springs in a small zip-lock bag. If the clips holding the wheel wipers to the truck side frame are broken, repair them at this time. Remove the screw in the bottom of the frame holding the motor to the frame and remove the motor.
Apply Kapton tape to the entire motor frame to insulate it from the under frame and top weight. Get tape just wide enough to curve up onto the sides of the motor frame. Do not put tape over the top motor contact. See Figure 1.
At the screw holes in the top and bottom of the motor frame make a slit in the tape in an X pattern. Reattach the insulated motor to the frame with a 2MM insulating (plastic) screw trimmed to the length of the original screw. 2MM insulating screws are available from Northwest Shortline (PT# 5205-5). Reinstall the trucks, drive shafts, worm gears and covers.
Modify the etching on the circuit board as seen in figure 2.
Remove a small amount of metal from each inside edge at the front of the top weight as seen in figure 3.
Put some Kapton tape on the top of each of the four risers the top weight sits on and trim to fit, see figure 4.
Put the top weight and circuit board back on top of the motor and attach with the original metal screw. Using 3M double sided tape, mount the MC-2 decoder in the front of the top weight where the excess metal was removed. Wire the decoder leads as shown in figure 5.
Use 3MM white LEDs for the front and read headlights. Wire the front LED to the white wire, the rear LED to the yellow wire and the common leg to the blue decoder wire. Remove the plastic headlight inserts and put the LEDs right in the headlight holes the plastic lenses were removed from. See figure 6 and 7.
Figure 7 Reattach the shell making sure no decoder wires are pinched. Program the unit and it’s ready to go!
Entire contents © Copyright Train Control Systems 2006 • Last Modified: Monday September 08, 2008 07:20 AM