This installation of TCS M1 Decoder is for HO Scale Model Power RS11 and was performed by Robert Lewis of Tilehust, Reading, United Kingdom


Important Soldering Tip:
Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. It will damage it. Use only Rosin core solder approved for electronics use.
We recommend to use only Kester "44" rosin core, SN63PB37, .015" diameter, part number 24-6337-0007.
This can be ordered from Techni-Tool under Techni-Tool part number 488SO157

http://www.techni-tool.com

This is a Model Power (Yugoslavia) RS-11. It has been re-painted into CP livery. fitted with an M1 decoder.

 

 To remove the body unscrew the 2 crosshead screws between the bogie and fuel tank (Cab end). There is also a locating lug  at the end rear hood that slots into the plastic chassis.
Remove all the existing wiring, except for about an inch of each wire from the bogie pick ups, and about an inch of the lower motor brush connection wire, this will save having to remove the motor.
I have left the original headlamp bulb in place but is is made redundant by the LED's I have fitted.




I have formed the 2 off  3mm golden-glo LED's as shown in the pictures and used hot melt glue to stick them to the top of the transmission towers. I have then soldered 1k resistors to the anodes. I have formed the decoder wires into a loom using short lengths of rubber sleeving, I have added 1 length of spare wire (white) to run from the front headlight to the rear for the headlight connection. Connect the red decoder wire to the front bogie  pick-up wire and the  black to the rear bogie pick-up wire, sleeve both joints. Connect the grey wire to the top motor terminal, and the orange to the existing wire from the bottom motor terminal, sleeve this joint. Connect the blue wire and the additional wire to the front LED resistor lead, and the white directly to the LED cathode. Connect the other end of the additional wire to the resistor of the rear headlamp and the white decoder wire to the LED cathode. I have left the decoder "hanging", as its so light it does not need attaching to the bodywork, it also makes removing the body very easy in the future. Ensure that all wiring is clear of the transmission shafts. Test installation. Then re-fit the body and the retaining screws.


Other solder tips: When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more then a 1/64 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire then half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire

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