This installation is for a HO-Scale Kato RS-2 using a TCS WOW121-Diesel Decoder, AS-MB2-NC Motherboard, KA4 Keep Alive™
and UNIV-SH1-C WOWSpeaker kit by TCS.
These items are available in the WDK-KAT-3 which was used for this installation.
AS-MB2-NC Motherboard WOW121-Diesel Decoder UNIV-SH1-C Speaker Kit KA4 Keep-Alive™
Click here for more information on the WDK-KAT-3 and the rest of the WOWDiesel Kits line.

Important Soldering Tip:
Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. It will damage it. Use only Rosin core solder approved for electronics use.
We recommend to use only Kester "44" rosin core, SN63PB37, .015" diameter, part number 24-6337-0007.
This can be ordered from Techni-Tool under Techni-Tool part number 488SO157

http://www.techni-tool.com

HO-Scale Kato RS-2 shown prior to installation.
    To start off this install, we must first remove shell. Do this by gently squeezing the shell on both sides and carefully lifting it upwards.

Shown with the shell off and the original lighting board already removed. To remove the board, separate the metal motor tabs and simply lift it off of the chassis.
Trim each motor lead tab and solder a connection point to each as highlighted above in red. Remove the walkway to reveal the track pick up.



Solder a wire lead to each motor pickup and insulate with shrink tubing. At this time, solder a low profile connection point to each side of the track pick up
and branch these leads to be able to connect to each end of the AS-MB2-NC.



Attach the AS-MB2-NC to the frame and solder the motor and track pickup wires according to your included wiring diagram. Replace the walkway.



    

Next, remove the front weight screw above highlighted in red and with it the front light tube and weight from the shell. This weight will be discarded.
Using a small mitre saw, trim the light tube just beyond the front lens element as shown above and place it back into place into the shell.



With the light tube in place, insert the 35mm x 16mm speaker into the UNIV-SH1-C enclosure and using hot melt glue, mount this assembly into the top
front of the shell right behind the light tube as shown above. NOTE: You must be very careful to avoid getting glue on the speaker cone. Glue on the
speaker will ultimately cause it to produce no sound and fail.

If your speaker enclosure installation covers the portholes on the enclosure, we recommend adding new port hole(s) similar to the original porting. Be sure that the new portholes are the same size and amount of the original and are vented freely into the locomotive We have found introducing a port of the correct size greatly increases the volume and sound quality of the installation. Too much or too little porting decreases the sound quality.




Wire the speaker leads to the AS-MB2-NC.



With the speaker installed, using a small dab of hot melt glue, secure the surface mount LED to the end of the rear light tube as shown above.
For this installation we decided to use 2 of the TCS 1417 (2x wired surface mount sunny white LED kit. Using the same method, secure the front LED
as shown below to the front light tube.
We have found that LED’s do not have to be placed on the end of the light tube, but can be placed anywhere against the light tube with equally good results.


With the lighting in place, using hot melt glue, mount the KA4 Keep Alive™ to the shell directly behind the speaker and solder these leads to the AK-MB2-NC.
You can now plug in your WOW121 decoder.

Lastly, in order to keep the wires neat and prevent possible shorts, lace the wires into a bundle using lacing cord, which is a wax impregnated string 
used for wire bundling and making harnesses. There are many choices of lacing cord available from Digikey www.digikey.com
We use part number 802534B BK032-ND

Now you can close up the locomotive. Be sure to be mindful of wire routing and reassembly of the shell as to not damage 
or foul the installation. Your Kato RS-2 is now WOWSound equipped and ready to roll!


Other solder tips: When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more then a 1/64 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire then half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire

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