This installation of TCS MC2P-SH Decoder is for HO Scale Kato EMD GP35 Phase I b and was performed by A.G.


Important Soldering Tip:
Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. It will damage it. Use only Rosin core solder approved for electronics use.
We recommend to use only Kester "44" rosin core, SN63PB37, .015" diameter, part number 24-6337-0007.
This can be ordered from Techni-Tool under Techni-Tool part number 488SO157

http://www.techni-tool.com

 

Picture of Kato EMD GP35 Phase I b with its shell on.

 

Grasping the shell at the center top of both sides (being careful not to crush the grills), lift the shell straight up and off of the chassis.

 

Unscrew two screws (circle in red) and remove the extra weight bar

 

Here is the original light board (circled in red) that you will see after you remove the weight bar

 

Gently remove the board by sliding it up and towards the front of the locomotive. (The right side of the above picture)

 

Gently squeeze the ends of power pick up rails, lift them over the tabs, and spread them away from the chassis as shown in the picture above. The purpose of this is to isolate the track power from the motor tabs.

 

Using Kapton tape, isolate the motor pads (circled in red) from the power pick up rails as shown in the picture above. Make sure all electrical connections are isolated to prevent any shorts.

 

TCS MC2P-SH decoder was used in this installation due to its small size. Solder the red wire of the harness to the right power pick up rail, and the black wire to the left power pick up rail as shown in the picture above.

 

Run the orange wire of the harness through the "LED cage" to the other side of the locomotive as shown in the picture above. Using electrical tape fix the orange wire to the locomotive chassis (circled in red) so that it stays in its place.

 

Solder the other end of the orange wire to the right (red side) motor pad as shown circled in the picture above.

 

Run the gray wire of the harness through the "LED cage" to the other side of the locomotive as shown in the picture above. Using electrical tape fix the orange wire to the locomotive chassis (circled in red) so that it stays in its place.

 

Solder the other end of the gray wire to the left (black side) motor pad as shown circled in the picture above.

 

Place a strip of electrical tape over the motor tabs (as marked in the picture above) to isolate it from the extra weight bar that will be placed on the top later on.

 

For this installation, Sunny White 1.5V LED is used. Place the 680 Ohm current limiting resistor on the LED's cathode (circled in red) and isolate it with electrical tape.

 

Run the white harness wire through the "LED cage" and solder it to the LED's resistor as shown in the picture above. Make sure you isolate it.

 

Insert the whole LED setup (circled in red) into the "LED cage"

 

Run the yellow harness wire exactly as shown in the picture above.

 

Install the reverse light LED together with its current limiting 680 Ohm resistor (solder it to the Cathode of the diode) to the trimmed yellow wire as shown in the picture above.

 

The two leads of the Diodes (anodes) need to be bridged (connected together) and soldered to the blue harness wire that is the common wire for both lights (front and reverse) - see the next installation steps.

Here, you can see how the yellow wire with the LED and the resistor are placed to fit the locomotive chassis (circled in red)

 

Isolate both LED's anodes to prevent any shorts.

 

Trim and run the blue harness wire (that is the common wire for the lights) as shown in the picture above.

 

Solder the blue wire to both LED's anodes (see the picture above) and isolate the whole connection. (See the picture below)

 

Here is a picture of completed MC2P-SH decoder installation.

Hold the shell in one hand and the chassis in your other hand. Lining up the front of both pieces, lower the shell onto the chassis, keeping the lower edge of the shell parallel with the chassis.

 


Other solder tips: When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more then a 1/64 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire then half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire

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