This was performed by our friends from DCC Xpress installations.
They offer high quality WOWSound installations for a flat rate complete with free return shipping!
You can find them at: www.dxinstalls.com

With milling of the frame, they have been able to utilize a 
AK-MB1 motherboard, WOW121 diesel decoder and UNIV-SH4C WOWSound kit

HO-Scale Atlas Master H16-44 prior to installation.

To start off this install, we must first remove the front and rear couplers screws as indicated above and remove their housings.

With the couplers removed gently pull apart the shell at the two ends and along the sides and lift the shell off of the frame.
Take care with the handrails as you lift off the shell so they don't break.

Shown with the shell off. Remove the wires from the original lighting board and then remove the board. We will also be removing the original
LED Bi color lighting as it is a common cathode and it will need to be replaced with common anode for correct operation and function.

With the board off, take note of the wiring to be sure and replace it in it's correct location. Trim, tin or lengthen the wires as neccessary.

To allow a space for the motherboard and speaker, the frame must be milled as highlighted above to keep all the  components below the original top of the frame.

    

Shown with the frame properly milled to accept the installation. In the milling, we created a channel for the front lighting wire leads as shown above left.

Clip on the AK-MB1 and solder the track and motor connections as indicated in the included wiring diagram.

Using a small dab of hot melt glue, secure the rear and front headlights along with the Bi color LEDs into the original locations.
Solder these connections to the AK-MB1 according to the included wiring diagram and using small lengths of TCS 3/32" and 3/64" shrink tubing, insulate these solder leads.

When placing the lighting, route the front lighting wire leads underneath the speaker insallation into the milled channel as shown in the above right photo.

Using double sided foam tape, with the 25mm X 14mm WOWSound speaker inserted into the UNI-SH4-C enclosure, mount this assembly to the frame as shown
and solder the wiring leads to the AK-MB1 according to the included wiring diagram.

NOTE: In this installation, the open fans on the roof have loose fan blades. In order to prevent vibration which could compromise the sound quality,
we recommend that you add a small drop of model glue to the junction of the fan blades and spindle to prevent this movement. The front fan cover frame
is easily removed as is the fan grill. Remove these for access to place the glue inconspicuously.

Lastly, in order to keep the wires neat and prevent possible shorts, lace the wires into a bundle using waxed lacing cord. With the AS-MB2 board installed into this locomotive, it is neccessary to remap the lights to allow them to operate with the correct motor direction. We did this by programing CV49 to value 16 and CV 50 to value 0. You can find this information in the included literature.

Now you can close up the locomotive and reinstall the coupler assemblies. Be sure to be mindful of wire routing and reassembly of the shell as to not damage or foul the installation.
Your Atlas Master H16-44 is now WOWSound equipped and ready to roll!

Other solder tips: When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more then a 1/64 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire then half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire

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