This installation is for a HO-Scale Atlas EMD SD35 low nose using a TCS WOW121-Diesel Decoder, AK-MB1 motherboard with Keep Alive™
and UNIV-SH1-C WOWSpeaker kit by TCS.

These items are available in the WDK-ATL-3 which was used for this installation.
AK-MB1 Motherboard with Keep Alive™ WOW121-Diesel Decoder UNIV-SH1-C Speaker Kit
Click here for more information on the WDK-ATL-3 and the rest of the WOWDiesel Kits line.

Important Soldering Tip:
Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. It will damage it. Use only Rosin core solder approved for electronics use.
We recommend to use only Kester "44" rosin core, SN63PB37, .015" diameter, part number 24-6337-0007.
This can be ordered from Techni-Tool under Techni-Tool part number 488SO157

http://www.techni-tool.com

 

HO-Scale Atlas EMD SD35 low nose prior to installation.

To start off this install, we must first remove the front and rear couplers and their housings. Once that is complete, the shell will lift off of the chassis.
Do this by holding the fuel tank with one hand and lifting the shell off by pressing up underneath the end platforms with your other hand.

With the shell off, we can now remove the factory light board. First remove any wire connectors and wires from the board.
Once the wires are loose, the factory light board can easily be removed from the frame.

Now with the factory light board removed, we can also remove both chassis weights. Make sure to save the front weight and its screw
for later reinstallation.

We can now attach the AK-MB1. Solder the motor, front and rear pick-up leads to the AK-MB1.

Next, attach leads to our front 3mm LED and solder the other ends to our AK-MB1 and remount the front weight, securing the LED down in the lighting channel.
Make sure to insulate the LED leads from each other as well as the weight. In our install, we used a 3mm Sunny White LED (Item 1288).

We have found that LED’s do not have to be placed on the end of the light tube, but can be placed anywhere against the light tube with equally good results.

Now, attach a SMD LED to the rear light. In our install, we used a Sunny White LED (Item 1417) and glued it to the rear light optic with hot melt glue.
Once attached, inset the 35mm X 16mm speaker into the enclosure and mount this assembly as shown behind this light using hot melt glue.

If your speaker enclosure installation covers the portholes on the enclosure, we recommend adding new port hole(s) similar to the original porting. Be sure that the new portholes are the same size and amount of the original and are vented freely into the locomotive We have found introducing a port of the correct size greatly increases the volume and sound quality of the installation. Too much or too little porting decreases the sound quality.

Solder our rear light and speaker leads to the pads on the AK-MB1.

You can now plug in the WOW121 decoder.

Lastly, in order to keep the wires neat and prevent possible shorts, lace the wires into a bundle using lacing cord, which is a wax impregnated string 
used for wire bundling and making harnesses. There are many choices of lacing cord available from Digikey www.digikey.com
We use part number 802534B BK032-ND

Now you can close up the locomotive and reinstall the coupler assemblies. Be sure to be mindful of wire routing and reassembly of the shell as to not damage 
or foul the installation. Your Atlas SD35 low nose is now WOWSound equipped and ready to roll!


Other solder tips: When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more then a 1/64 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire then half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire

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